Walk into Manchester’s new Butterbean Market & Café on any given workday, and you will see a small army of people on laptops holding meetings as they work to rebuild Manchester’s Hull Street. The Market & Café has become a co-working space of sorts, a base of operations if you will, for the re-building exercise of this former city turned neighborhood of Richmond, VA. Folks take phone calls, meet equipment suppliers, and churn out emails while answering questions from a barrage of contractors as they nibble on sandwiches and coffee. One of those folks is a brewmaster by the name of Ben Spencer. Ben is working feverishly to bring Dogtown Brewing Co, a new brewery and brewpub with rooftop bar to life in an old department store building across the street from The Butterbean.

A native son to Richmond before it became known as RVA, Ben grew up in Richmond’s north side. He left his home town to chase his dreams on the west coast before the craft beer creativity wave caught hold in Richmond. Ben’s resume is an impressive craft beverage tour of duty. I asked Ben some questions, and here is what he had to say about his background, his Dogtown Brewing project, and what makes him tick.

We understand you are from Richmond originally, but moved out west? What made you move, and then come back to Richmond?

Well, I enjoy the idea that there is always more to see. For me that has made all the difference.  I had no idea what I wanted to be when I grew up until I came upon new folks that I was not on a path to normally run across. I needed to create some space between those ideas and the ones that I needed and continue to need to see. A long journey led me back to where I started. Richmond has come a long way since the 90’s and is now leading a charge toward development in my chosen trade. I have learned a lot since leaving, and am very excited to help lead that charge while staying home with some core ideas. Add that to the reality of being an only child (not the quintessential type;) that loves his family, Richmond has always been on my mind as where I would end up. Coming back felt natural.

Where have you brewed beer before and what was your favorite brewery job?

I have brewed formally for The Oasis, Oskar Blues, Rockies Brewing Company (Boulder Beer), Magnolia, and Strike Brewing. Throughout the many years, I have collaborated with beer, wine, mead, and food producers from all over the US. I have brewed beer for many in my past, but none as formative as Magnolia Brewing. I was there for the longest time, and to be honest, I was able to put my soul into the beverage program there. I am proud of the medals and accolades over the years, but nothing is more satisfying than the folks both within the industry and not that really truly enjoy the art that I create.

Do you have a favorite beer style?

I am a hophead at heart, but enjoy many styles that showcase raw materials. I try to abide by the “KISS” (keep it simple stupid) way of thinking about most things. While I can, and do create over the top riffs on style, I really find home to be where my heart is. I love to showcase the unsung hero’s of beer (the farmers). Traditional styles are traditional for a reason. With simplicity and fresh product at our hands, there is plenty to continue to drive forward with while also playing around.

New England IPAs are the rage these days, do you see that trend continuing? What do you see as future trends for the craft beer market?

Yes, NEIPAs have gained some recognition of late. I haven’t played around with them very much, but am certain that I can manufacture a good one (or several). What I am witnessing as a consumer is that it seems to be following a similar trajectory as the Cascadian Ale (Black IPA). While consumers want what is new and flashy this moment, it is watering down the basics of drinking and the economics of drinking. Personally, they fill me up quickly keeping me from wanting more beer. That trickles down to one or two sales a customer versus two or three. Trends come and go. I find it important to give the people what they want while showing what you do best. IPA is bitter by definition. Therefore, if you don’t want beer that tastes bitter, don’t order it. I have been playing with the idea of other NE-style offerings that are heavy in aroma and light on bitterness for this trend. The haze craze seems to be here to stay. Now it is ready for the good ones to stick out. There is a lot of one-off crazy beers out there. We will make them too, but not bet the farm on them. It is already waning. Richmond has a robust thirst for new product that will shake out. The trick is to be one of the breweries that lives past the hyper trendy. 

What do you see as the biggest challenge you will face at Dogtown Brewing?

Obviously, this is not Scott’s Addition. That is not to be scoffed at. This neighborhood is in transition. Customers aren’t currently walking down the street like in many successful areas containing pubs. That makes it a challenge-an exciting challenge for the long haul. Every customer is the most important customer. It is as simple as that. The local pub is for everybody to enjoy. If we set our feet as the place to be, it will spread.

What do you see as the biggest opportunity for Dogtown Brewing?

I see it as a work in progress, always willing and open to change for the better. I love the idea that we are looking to change what is going on around here, but take comfort in the belief that we will thrive despite the odds. Revitalization is an exciting concept to take part in.

How much beer do you see Dogtown making and how many styles of beer do you want to have?

This is a big one. In the current space provided, I would love to believe that 20 static beers will be for sale on draught at any given moment is possible, but also see that as a huge task. Off the bat, I would say that it may be a lofty goal to achieve. I am finding ways to tweak the current structure of a brewpub and make that goal a reality. I foresee a small pilot brewery within the walls of the current Dogtown Brewery to accent what we have in the idea mill. This will enable us to be able us to be more fluid with our creativity. If it is numbers that you are asking about, then I would say 2,500 barrels is a great goal to set in the beginning. Our capacity will be in the ball park of 3-4,000 barrels in years to come. There is a ton of work between now and then to make that so.  

What would you like to see happen in the Manchester neighborhood now that you are involved in the area?

A Cooler Hipper Carytown! Add diversity!

What do you do for fun when you aren’t brewing beer?

I am a huge music fan. I have spent a good amount of my existence following jam bands. I am that guy. Fill in the blanks from there.

What are you doing now while you wait for Dogtown Brewing to open its doors?

I am currently managing the beverage program at the Butterbean Market & Café. We have one of the coolest beer lists in town at the market in my opinion. I am also helping to refine the day-to-day operations of the Market/Cafe while getting to know the local clientele. During this process, I am also taking up projects as they come along while keeping in mind that Dogtown is my primary focus. If one were to look at any functional beverage program in town, they would see that it is a moving target and requires constant attention.